Replacing a Johnson and Starley boiler

Johnson & Starley sells no boilers today. We fit new boilers in their place.

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  • Every Reno and QuanTec code explained
  • New boilers quoted from photos or a free visit
  • All our engineers are Gas Safe registered

Makes we repair

Is Johnson & Starley still in business?

Johnson & Starley is still in business, but it sells no boilers today. The company, founded in 1922, makes warm air heaters and air filtration now. It keeps its boiler manuals in an archive, which it describes as information on past and discontinued products.

Johnson & Starley's boilers were the Reno, from about 2004, and the QuanTec, from 2012, which it still listed in June 2024. The company says it does no servicing, repair or installation work itself, and its spares page names its warm air heaters, not its boilers.

We fit new boilers in place of a Reno or a QuanTec, quoted from photos or after a free survey visit. We are an independent firm, with no connection with Johnson & Starley. If yours has stopped, ring us, and we'll ask what the display shows.

Sources: Companies House, Johnson & Starley's pages on its history, products, document archive, FAQs and spares, and its archived product pages.

What's involved in replacing a Johnson & Starley?

Replacing a Johnson & Starley boiler starts with a quote. We quote from photos of the old boiler, its flue and where it sits, or after a free survey visit. The quote is in writing before any work starts. A quote made from photos is confirmed at a survey before the new boiler is fitted.

Still under guarantee? A QuanTec was sold with an 8-year parts and labour guarantee, and was still listed in 2024. One fitted in recent years may still be covered. Your guarantee letter gives its dates and terms.

The flue and the type: every Reno and QuanTec is a room-sealed condensing boiler. That means neither its flue nor its type is the hurdle an older, open-flued boiler can be. A Reno or QuanTec system or regular boiler heats a hot water cylinder. We'll ask whether you'd keep the cylinder or change to a combi. See how combi, system and regular boilers differ.

Sized to your home: our engineers size the new boiler with a heat loss calculation, and set its heating output to suit the home. They balance the radiators fully when it goes in.

What the rules ask of a new boiler in England:

  • A new gas boiler must meet a minimum efficiency, its ErP rating.
  • A new combi needs one more energy saver, such as weather compensation or a smart thermostat that learns and adjusts.
  • The heating is cleaned and flushed, with inhibitor added.
  • A carbon monoxide alarm goes in the same room.

The makes we fit most are Vaillant and Worcester Bosch, and we fit every make and model. The maker's own magnetic filter goes in where its guarantee asks for one. Nothing is fitted without your yes.

Need heat back sooner? We fit emergency replacements. Ring us, and we'll ask what the boiler is doing and say when an engineer can come.

A new boiler, fitted: what's included and how the day goes.

Sources: Johnson & Starley's archived QuanTec pages, and Approved Documents L and J.

15% off a new boiler, fitted

The 15% comes off the price of a new boiler installation. We quote from photos of your old boiler, or after a free survey visit. Now is the time to replace an old or discontinued boiler.

Ask for a quoteCall us now

Terms: 15% off everything in the price we quote for a new boiler installation. That means the boiler, its flue and controls, and the fitting. The offer is for installations booked by 31 December 2026. One offer per home, and not with any other offer.

Which Johnson & Starley boiler do you have?

Johnson & Starley made two ranges of wall-hung gas boiler, the Reno and the QuanTec, all of them condensing. The way each shows a fault tells them apart:

  • Reno HE combi

    Models

    HE30C and HE37C, and the LPG HE30CP and HE37CP

    Type

    Condensing combi

    Faults show as

    E and a number on a small display, such as ER:26

  • Reno HE system

    Models

    HE16S, HE25S and HE31S, and their LPG models

    Type

    Condensing system boiler

    Faults show as

    E and a number on the display

  • Reno HE regular

    Models

    HE16H, HE25H and HE31H, and their LPG models

    Type

    Condensing regular boiler, for the radiators and a cylinder

    Faults show as

    A pattern on six LEDs (the first, of 2004)

  • RenoXtra

    Models

    HE30CXtra and HE37CXtra

    Type

    Combi with a gas saver module for the hot water

    Faults show as

    No manual could be found, so ring us

  • QuanTec

    Models

    The 24c, 28c and HR28C combis, the 24s system boiler, and the 16r and 24r regular boilers. Later came the HR28C, 30C, 30C-SA and 24C ErP

    Type

    Condensing combi, system or regular boiler

    Faults show as

    E and F codes on a display

A Johnson & Starley warm air heater isn't a boiler. Warm air heating has been the company's main business for a century. An appliance of theirs that isn't a Reno or a QuanTec may well be a warm air heater. The codes on this page aren't a heater's codes.

Not sure which you have? Ring us, and we'll ask what it is called and what it does. Not a Johnson & Starley? See every make, current and discontinued, by type.

Sources: Johnson & Starley's user instructions and installation manuals for the Reno and the QuanTec, its archived product pages and its history page.

Reno and QuanTec codes, and what they mean

A Johnson & Starley boiler shows a fault as a code, and the Reno's codes differ from the QuanTec's:

  • A Reno combi or system shows E and a number on its display, such as ER:26.
  • The first Reno regular boiler shows a pattern on six LEDs.
  • A QuanTec shows E and F codes.

Some numbers mean the same on both, such as E37 and F37, low pressure. Others don't, such as E33, a hot water sensor on a Reno and the return sensor on a QuanTec. That's why each code here is named with its range.

The first five panels below are the faults the user guides explain. The last three hold every code.

Low pressure on a Reno or QuanTec: E37 and F37

What it means: Low pressure means the sealed heating system has lost water pressure. The signs differ by range:

  • On a Reno, the pressure figure flashes below 1.0 bar. At 0.6 bar, E37 shows and the heating and hot water stop.
  • A QuanTec won't run below 0.3 bar, and shows F37.

Possible causes on a Reno, as the manuals list them: the pressure itself, then the pressure sensor.

Possible causes on a QuanTec: a system not full or valves closed, then the pressure sensor's connections, then the sensor.

What you can do: on a QuanTec, top up as its guide shows. The steps are below. A Reno's guides say a competent person tops it up, after looking for a leak, so ring us.

If the pressure keeps dropping, ring us. Johnson & Starley says a QuanTec that keeps losing pressure between its yearly services has a leak on the system.

A Reno or QuanTec failed to light: E1, E26 and E01

What it means: A failure to light means the boiler couldn't prove a flame. What you'll see depends on the range:

  • E1 on a Reno: the boiler failed to light after several tries.
  • E26 on a Reno: the boiler lost its flame five times in four minutes.
  • E01 on a QuanTec: the boiler failed to light after five tries.
  • The first Reno regular boiler: LED 1 alone, or LEDs 2, 4 and 5.

Possible causes of a Reno's E1, as the manuals list them:

  • the gas supply and gas cock
  • the flame sensor and its wiring
  • then the gas valve

Possible causes of a Reno's E26:

  • the flame sensing
  • falling gas pressure
  • the fan
  • a blocked flue

Possible causes of a QuanTec's E01:

  • the gas pressure
  • the detection electrode
  • a blocked condensate pipe
  • the gas valve
  • then the board

What you can do: see that your other gas appliances work, then reset once, as each range's reset sets out.

If it comes back, ring us. If you smell gas, don't reset anything. Ring the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999.

A Reno or QuanTec overheated: E3 and E03

What it means: An overheat means the water in the boiler got too hot. It shows as E3 on a Reno, E03 on a QuanTec, and LEDs 1 and 2 on the first Reno regular boiler.

Possible causes on a Reno, as the manuals list them:

  • air in the boiler, or no water
  • then the bypass, the flow sensor's clip, the pump and the secondary heat exchanger

Possible causes on a QuanTec:

  • a system not full, or valves closed
  • then the flow and return difference, the pump and the sensors

What you can do: on a Reno, press Reset once. On a QuanTec, its guide gives these steps:

  1. Top up to 1.0 bar.
  2. Bleed the radiators.
  3. See that the radiator valves are open.
  4. Then reset.
A Reno or QuanTec stopped by its condensate pipe, blocked or frozen

What it means: A blocked condensate pipe stops a Reno or a QuanTec. Every one is a condensing boiler, with a plastic pipe that drains its water. When debris or ice blocks that pipe, a Reno locks out and a QuanTec shuts down. A blocked pipe has no code of its own, though the QuanTec's checks for E01 include it.

What you can do: Johnson & Starley says to pour warm, never boiling, water from a kettle over the frozen part. Do that where the pipe is within reach outside, then reset. Never alter or block the drain.

If that doesn't clear it, ring us.

The heating or the hot water has stopped on a Reno or QuanTec

What the manuals check: A Reno or QuanTec can stop heating, or giving hot water, with no code showing. The first check is for a call from the timer, the thermostats and the boiler's own controls. On a Reno combi with no hot water, the water flow, the cold inlet filter and the flow sensor come next.

What you can do: see that the timer and thermostats are on and calling. On a QuanTec with no heating, its guide says to press and hold its two hot water buttons for 5 seconds, until the symbol goes.

If that doesn't bring it back, ring us.

MoreEvery code on the Reno combi and system

A Reno combi or system shows E and a number, such as ER:26 on its display, and keeps the last eight codes in its memory. The system boiler has no E32 or E33, its hot water sensor codes.

  • E1Failed to light after several tries

    What the manual's checks are

    The gas supply and gas cock, then the flame sensor and its wiring, then the gas valve

  • E2False flame: a flame sensed while the burner should be off

    What the manual's checks are

    The ignition control board's wiring

  • E3The water got too hot

    What the manual's checks are

    Air in the boiler or no water. Then the bypass, the flow sensor's clip, the pump and the secondary heat exchanger

  • E5No fan speed signal

    What the manual's checks are

    The fan and its wiring

  • E7The flue gas is too hot (a blocking fault)

    What the manual's checks are

    Reduced water flow: the insulation behind the heat exchanger, the water, the pump

  • E8A flame circuit fault

    What the manual's checks are

    The flame sensing lead, shorted to earth

  • E9A gas valve circuit fault

    What the manual's checks are

    The control board's seating on the valve, then the board or the valve

  • E11The flow and return sensors disagree

    What the manual's checks are

    A bypass, and the sensors' fitting

  • E12A memory fault

    What the manual's checks are

    The control board

  • E13Too many restart attempts

    What the manual's checks are

    The control board

  • E21An internal error

    What the manual's checks are

    The control board

  • E25A software check fault (a blocking fault)

    What the manual's checks are

    The software versions

  • E26The flame was lost five times in four minutes

    What the manual's checks are

    The flame sensing, falling gas pressure, the fan, a blocked flue

  • E30The flow sensor has shorted (a blocking fault)

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and resistance

  • E31Listed twice: the heating flow sensor out of range, and the flow sensor's circuit open (a blocking fault)

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and continuity

  • E32The hot water sensor has shorted (combi)

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and resistance

  • E33The hot water sensor's circuit is open (combi)

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and continuity

  • E34Low mains voltage

    What the manual's checks are

    The incoming supply

  • E37Low water pressure

    What the manual's checks are

    The gauge, then the pressure sensor and its wiring, then re-pressurising

  • E40The water pressure is too high

    What the manual's checks are

    The pressure when cold and the expansion vessel's charge, then the sensor

  • E41No pressure signal

    What the manual's checks are

    The wiring

  • E44The heating return sensor is out of range

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and continuity

  • E45The flue sensor has shorted

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and resistance

  • E46The flue sensor's circuit is open

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and continuity

  • E47The pressure sensor isn't connected

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and continuity

  • E99The display and the control board aren't talking

    What the manual's checks are

    The wiring between them

MoreEvery LED pattern on the first Reno regular boiler

The first Reno regular boiler, of 2004, shows a fault as a pattern on six LEDs, numbered 1 to 6 from the left. Whether the later ones use the same patterns isn't in any manual we could read.

  • 1An ignition lockout

    What the manual's checks are

    The controls, the timer and the boiler's own controls

  • 1 and 2An overheat

    What the manual's checks are

    Venting the boiler, then the pump

  • 1 and 3No fan speed signal

    What the manual's checks are

    The fan and its wiring

  • 1, 2 and 3The flue is too hot

    What the manual's checks are

    The pump

  • 4A flame circuit fault

    What the manual's checks are

    The flame detection lead

  • 1 and 4A gas valve drive fault

    What the manual's checks are

    The ignition control board or the gas valve

  • 2 and 4A control board fault

    What the manual's checks are

    The main control assembly

  • 1, 3 and 5A control board fault

    What the manual's checks are

    The main control assembly

  • 2, 3 and 5A control board fault

    What the manual's checks are

    The main control assembly

  • 1, 4 and 5A control board fault

    What the manual's checks are

    The main control assembly

  • 2, 4 and 5The flame was lost five times in four minutes

    What the manual's checks are

    The flame lead, then the gas pressure while firing

  • 2, 3, 4 and 5The heating flow sensor has shorted

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and resistance

  • 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5The heating flow sensor's circuit is open

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and continuity

  • 2 and 6Low mains voltage, under 180 volts

    What the manual's checks are

    The incoming supply and its wiring

  • 1, 2 and 6A mains frequency fault

    What the manual's checks are

    The supply, checked by a qualified electrician

  • 1, 2, 3 and 6An OpenTherm sensor fault

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and resistance

  • 1, 2, 4 and 6The heating return sensor has shorted

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and resistance

  • 3, 4 and 6The heating return sensor's circuit is open

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and continuity

  • 1, 3, 4 and 6The flue sensor has shorted

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and resistance

  • 2, 3, 4 and 6The flue sensor's circuit is open

    What the manual's checks are

    Its wiring and continuity

  • All sixThe display and the control board aren't talking

    What the manual's checks are

    The wiring and connections

MoreEvery code on the QuanTec

A QuanTec shows E and F codes, and its user guide gives owners a step or two for some before the call. These are the combi guide's codes. The system and regular boilers' codes weren't found.

  • E01Failed to light

    What its guide asks of you

    See that your other gas appliances work, reset, then ring us

  • E02A false flame lockout

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • E03An overheat lockout

    What its guide asks of you

    Top up to 1.0 bar, bleed the radiators, see that the radiator valves are open, reset, then ring us

  • E05A fan fault

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • E08A flame circuit failure

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • E09A gas valve feedback fault

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • E12A memory lockout

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • E15A sensor drift lockout

    What its guide asks of you

    Top up to 1.0 bar, bleed the radiators, see that the radiator valves are open, reset, then ring us

  • E16, E17 and E18A sensor stuck lockout

    What its guide asks of you

    Top up to 1.0 bar, bleed the radiators, see that the radiator valves are open, reset, then ring us

  • E21An internal lockout

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • E33The return sensor has a fault

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • E34A low mains voltage lockout

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us, or an electrician

  • E35The flow sensor has a fault

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • F07The flue sensor has a fault

    What its guide asks of you

    Top up to 1.0 bar, bleed the radiators, see that the radiator valves are open, reset, then ring us

  • F13A remote reset lockout

    What its guide asks of you

    Power off and back on, press reset, then ring us

  • F37Low water pressure

    What its guide asks of you

    Top up to 1.0 bar, bleed the radiators, see that the radiator valves are open, reset, then ring us

  • F40The water pressure is too high

    What its guide asks of you

    See whether the gauge reads over 2.8 bar, bleed the radiators, reset, then ring us

  • F47The pressure sensor isn't connected

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • F52The hot water sensor has a fault

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • F53A flue temperature sensor lockout

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

  • F82 (30C-SA)The condensate level alarm

    What its guide asks of you

    Ring us

The causes in these panels keep each manual's order. They aren't ranked by how often they happen.

Sources: Johnson & Starley's user instructions and installation manuals for the Reno (2004 to 2012) and the QuanTec (2016 and 2018), from its own document archive and archived copies, read on 11 October 2026.

How do you reset a Reno or QuanTec, and top up its pressure?

A Reno or a QuanTec is reset with its own button, once, as its user guide shows:

  • Reno combi and system: open the flip-down door across the bottom (pull its corners towards you) and press Reset. If the fault comes back, turn the boiler off and ring us.
  • The first Reno regular boiler, of 2004: turn the heating control to OFF, then back on.
  • QuanTec: press the reset button, marked K4, twice.

Topping up a QuanTec: the gauge is under the boiler, on the left-most pipe. Johnson & Starley says to top up below 0.3 bar. The steps are these:

  1. See that the filling loop's valves are closed.
  2. Take off the loop's two caps, and fit the loop.
  3. Open the valves, and close them at 1 to 1.5 bar.
  4. Take the loop off at the left, and angle it upwards.
  5. Put the caps back.

If you can't, or the pressure keeps dropping, ring us.

Topping up a Reno: the pressure shows at the lower right of the display and should read at least 1.0 bar. The Reno's guides say a competent person fills and tops up the system, after looking for a leak, so ring us.

No pilot to light: every Reno and QuanTec lights itself. A plume of steam at the flue outside is normal.

If you smell gas, don't reset anything. Ring the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999.

Sources: Johnson & Starley's user instructions for the Reno, the first Reno regular boiler and the QuanTec, its Reno installation manual and its FAQs.

Do you cover my part of London?

Yes: we cover all of Greater London, in every borough north and south of the Thames. We fit new boilers in place of Johnson & Starley boilers. Pick your side of the river to see the areas.

North of the riverSouth of the river
Source: Office for National Statistics licensed under the Open Government Licence v.3.0. Contains OS data © Crown copyright and database right 2026

North of the river

Every borough north of the Thames: Barnet and Enfield at the top, Hillingdon in the west, Havering in the east, and central London in between.

South of the river

Every borough south of the Thames: Richmond and Kingston in the west, Bexley in the east, and down through Croydon to Sutton and Bromley.

All the areas we cover

Johnson & Starley: your questions

Does Johnson & Starley still make boilers?

No, Johnson & Starley no longer sells boilers. Its products today are warm air heaters and air filtration. It keeps the Reno and QuanTec manuals in an archive for past and discontinued products. The company itself still trades, as it has since 1922.

Is my QuanTec still under guarantee?

A QuanTec may still be under guarantee. It was sold with an 8-year parts and labour guarantee and was still listed in 2024. Your guarantee letter gives the dates and terms. The QuanTec's user guide says the guarantee needs a service every year.

Is my Johnson & Starley a boiler or a warm air heater?

A Johnson & Starley appliance is a boiler if it is a Reno or a QuanTec. Warm air heating has been the company's main business for a century, so one with another name may well be a warm air heater. Not sure? Ring us, and we'll ask what it is called and what it does.

What do E37 and F37 mean?

E37 on a Reno and F37 on a QuanTec both mean the water pressure in the heating is low. A Reno stops at 0.6 bar, and a QuanTec below 0.3 bar. A QuanTec's guide shows owners how to top it up, and a Reno's guides leave that to a competent person. If the pressure keeps dropping, ring us.

How do I reset a QuanTec?

A QuanTec is reset by pressing its reset button, K4, twice, as its user guide shows. A Reno has a Reset button behind the flip-down door at the bottom. Reset once, and if the code comes back, ring us.

Can you replace a Johnson & Starley boiler in an emergency?

Yes, a Johnson & Starley boiler that has stopped can be replaced in an emergency. We fit emergency replacements, so ring us day or night. We'll ask what the boiler is doing and say when an engineer can come.

What does a new boiler cost?

The cost of a new boiler depends on the boiler, your home and what the job needs. Your quote, from photos or after a free survey visit, sets it all out in writing before any work starts. How our rates and quotes work.

Do I need to know which Johnson & Starley boiler I have?

No, you don't need the model to ring us. Say what your Johnson & Starley boiler is doing, and we'll ask the rest. Photos of the boiler, its flue and where it sits help us quote for a new one.

Don't know what has failed? You don't have to.Ring and say what you can see or hear. Finding the fault is our job.

Calls answered 24 hours a day

A real person answers and gives you the rate on the call. No work starts until you say yes, and repairs are guaranteed for 12 months: parts, labour and any return visit.

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